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Braised Oxtail

A cornerstone of Roman cucina povera, born in the Regola district where the vaccinari (slaughterhouse butchers) were paid in offcuts. Oxtail is browned, simmered for hours with white wine, tomato and a small forest of celery until the meat slips from the bone, then finished with the unmistakable agrodolce note of bitter cocoa, pine nuts and raisins.

Braised Oxtail
Photo: Pexels

Ingredients

  • 1.5 kg Oxtail
  • 1 head Celery
  • 1 whole Onion
  • 1 whole Carrot
  • 2 clove Garlic
  • 400 g Tomatoes
  • 200 ml White wine
  • 30 g Lard
  • 3 tbsp Extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 tsp Unsweetened cocoa powder
  • 30 g Pine nuts
  • 30 g Raisins
  • 2 whole Cloves
  • 1 to taste Salt
  • 1 to taste Black pepper

Steps

  1. Rinse the oxtail pieces and pat dry.
  2. If needed, blanch them in boiling water for 5 minutes, drain, then dry again — this firms the meat and removes scum.
  3. In a wide heavy pot, heat the olive oil and lard.
  4. Brown the oxtail pieces on all sides over medium-high heat until deeply colored, about 10 minutes.
  5. Remove and set aside.
  6. Lower the heat and add the finely chopped onion, one chopped celery stalk, the carrot and the garlic.
  7. Cook gently until soft and golden, about 8 minutes.
  8. Return the oxtail to the pot, pour in the white wine and let it evaporate completely over high heat, scraping the base.
  9. Add the peeled tomatoes crushed by hand, the cloves, salt and pepper.
  10. Pour in enough hot water to nearly cover the meat.
  11. Cover and simmer very gently for about 3 hours, turning the pieces occasionally and adding hot water as needed, until the meat is tender and pulls from the bone.
  12. Meanwhile, cut the remaining celery into thick batons, blanch them in salted water for 5 minutes and drain.
  13. Add the blanched celery to the pot and cook uncovered for 30 more minutes so the sauce thickens.
  14. Stir in the bitter cocoa, pine nuts and raisins.
  15. Cook for a final 10 minutes, taste and adjust salt and pepper.
  16. Let the coda rest off the heat for 10 minutes.
  17. Serve hot with plenty of its dark sauce and good bread.

Tips

  • Use the thicker tail joints for the richest gelatin. The dish improves overnight — make it a day ahead and the agrodolce sauce will deepen. The cocoa is bitter, not sweet: a single teaspoon is enough to round out the flavor without making it taste of chocolate.

≈ 540 kcal · 42 g protein · 12 g carbs · 34 g fat — per serving, estimate

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